This is the only croqueta in Miami that matters.

It matters like the love of your life matters. There’s a longing when she’s not around. An emptiness. Counting the minutes, hours, and days until the next kiss is all you can think of as work, TV, and chores merely distract you from the void. Reuniting is the only cure for your malaise.

This is the relationship you are entering when you eat the ham croqueta at Islas Canarias, a landmark in a tiny mall at the intersection of Coral Way and 137th avenue in West Kendall.

I’ve been going there for many years. The ventanita on the corner of the restaurant that serves all of your favorite Cuban snacks has only grown more popular. Even Anthony Bourdain went there in the Miami episode of his Parts Unknown show. I’ve never been prouder.

Just know that this love requires effort. Parking in the mall can be stressful, especially mornings. You now also have to queue for service at the ventanita which is not something you see a lot down here. It’s possible you’ll have to wait for the next batch of croquetas too when you do get to place your order but don’t lose your nerve. Enjoy some café, silently judge the political conversations erupting around you, and breathe in the pheromones of fried delights.

Your devotion will be rewarded.

The croqueta comes to you with a slice of lime and packets of soda crackers as so many do in restaurants around town. You don’t need them. These golden croquetas with a classic, crispy, crumb crust do not need to be enhanced. You want the flavors and textures to fill your mouth and coat your tongue. Every bite into an Islas Canarias croqueta is a reminder of the warmth and contentment of true love. You will wonder why you ever dated anyone else.

The crispy crust delivers a perfectly creamy and satisfying ham filling that never overpowers. Its complexity and depth of flavor astounds as you make those loving noises you never know you make until your lover tells you. You can see the herbs and the flecks of ham as the delicious smell wafts into your nostrils with every bite. It never feels naughty; only right.

The croquetas are shaped more consistently than they used to be. I do miss the irregular shapes, which delighted me with their imperfection and variable portions. I could also swear the crust was thinner in the past but the flavor and textures I fell in love with have never changed.

The melancholy that drapes you as you approach the last bite is real. You can’t decide whether to ask for another or immediately dream of the next rendezvous.

You smile, you shake your head.

This is the croqueta you’ve always wanted. Your everything. She’s all that matters.

Never change, Islas Canarias croquetas. Let’s grow old together.

PS: You can also find Islas Canarias croquetas at another West Kendall institution, and one of my favorite Miami restaurants, Finka Table and Tap.